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Framing and caring for watercolour art takes a bit more care than, say, oil or acrylic paintings-mainly because watercolour is usually done on paper and is sensitive to moisture, light, and acidity. Here's how to do it properly so your piece lasts for years:

Use acid-free materials 

Always choose acid-free mats and backing boards. Regular cardboard can yellow and damage the paper over time.

Add a mat (don't skip this) 

A mat creates space between the artwork and the glass so the paint doesn't stick or transfer.

• A standard mat width is 2-4 inches
• Go wider for a more gallery-style look

Choose the right glass 

You've got a few good options:

• UV-protective glass or acrylic - helps prevent fading
• Non-glare glass - reduces reflections but may slightly soften colours
• Museum glass - best clarity UV protection (but pricey)

Secure the artwork properly 

Avoid tape directly on the artwork. Instead:

• Use hinge mounting with archival tape (like Japanese paper hinges)
• This allows the paper to expand/contract naturally

Seal the back 

Close the frame with dust cover paper to keep out dirt and insects.

Caring for Watercolour Art 

Keep it out of direct sunlight 

Even with UV glass, prolonged exposure will fade pigments over time.

Control humidity 

Watercolour paper can warp or mold in damp conditions.

• Ideal humidity: ~40-55%
• Avoid bathrooms, kitchens, or damp basements

Handle with clean hands 

Oils from your fingers can stain the paper permanently.

Clean the frame, not the art 

• Wipe glass with a soft cloth
• Never spray cleaner directly onto the frame (liquid can seep inside)

Store properly if not displayed 

If you're storing:

• Use archival sleeves or folders
• Keep flat in a cool, dry place
• Avoid stacking heavy items on top

Common Mistakes to Avoid 

• Framing without a mat (leads to sticking and damage)
• Using regular tape or glue
• Hanging in humid or sunny spots
• Rolling the artwork tightly for storage

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Watercolour is often more affordable than oil painting, but not because it's "less serious"- it's mostly about materials, setup, and how much you use per painting. Here's what's really going on:

Paint usage and cost efficiency

Watercolour is used in very thin, diluted layers. A small amount of pigment goes a long way-you're mostly painting with water. A single tube or pan can last a long time. With oil paint, you typically apply thicker, opaque layers, sometimes building up multiple passes (underpainting, glazing, impasto), which uses more paint overall.

Result: even if the tube price is similar, oil gets used up faster.

No need for solvents and extra mediums

Oil painting requires additional materials: Solvents like turpentine or odorless mineral spirits, Mediums like linseed oil for modifying flow and drying. Watercolour, by contrast: uses just water for thinning and cleaning and doesn't require ventilation or special disposal

Those extra supplies in oil painting add ongoing cost.

Brushes and tool wear

Oil painting is tougher on tools. Oil brushes need to handle thicker paint and scrubbing. They wear out faster and often cost more (especially natural bristle brushes). Watercolour brushes: are softer and can last a long time with gentle use and you can get good results with fewer brushes overall

Surfaces and preparation

Oil painting surfaces are more complex: like canvas or wood panels, priming with gesso (sometimes multiple layers), stretching or mounting (for canvas)

Watercolour uses paper-ideally archival, but still simpler to prepare with no priming or stretching required in many cases. Even high-quality cotton paper is often cheaper and easier than prepping canvases.

Drying time and workflow costs

Oil paint dries slowly (days to weeks), which can increase indirect costs:

You may need multiple works in progress and so your studio space gets tied up longer and storage racks or drying areas are needed

Watercolour dries in minutes to hours providing faster turnaround, less space needed and fewer logistical costs

Portability and setup

Watercolour is minimal: small palette water container paper and easy to travel with if you are into plein aire

Oil painting requires more gear (paints, mediums, solvents, rags, palettes) and often needs a dedicated workspace

One important nuance

Top-tier watercolour materials (like 100% cotton paper and professional pigments) can still be expensive. And cheap oil painting setups do exist.

But in general:

• Watercolour = lower ongoing and setup costs
• Oil = higher material and maintenance costs

Simple way to think about it

Watercolour is efficient and minimal.
Oil painting is richer in texture and flexibility-but comes with more material overhead.

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In the next few blogs I will be taking about features of watercolour and about curation. In doing so I will include one picture of a famous watercolour painting by a master painter, and for fun, one of mine. I hope you enjoy.

Watercolour has a reputation for being delicate, but modern materials and presentation methods have changed that quite a bit. When done right, a watercolour painting today can last for many decades-sometimes centuries-without significant fading or deterioration. The key factors are pigments, paper, and framing.

Modern watercolour pigments (lightfastness)
Historically, some watercolour pigments were derived from natural sources that faded quickly when exposed to light. Today, many paints use synthetic, highly stable pigments designed specifically for permanence. Manufacturers test and rate these for lightfastness-their resistance to fading under UV exposure.

• High-quality paints (often labeled "professional" or "artist grade") use pigments that can remain stable for 50-100 years under normal display conditions.
• Organizations like ASTM International provide lightfastness ratings (e.g., ASTM I = excellent).
• Modern pigments like quinacridones and phthalocyanines are especially known for their durability.

Archival (acid-free) paper
Paper plays a huge role in longevity because it's the physical structure holding the paint.

• Archival watercolour paper is acid-free or pH-neutral, which prevents yellowing and brittleness over time.
• Many high-end papers are made from 100% cotton (rag), which is far more durable than wood pulp paper (cellulose).
• Some papers are also buffered with alkaline reserves to neutralize environmental acids over time.

Acidic paper deteriorates from within, causing discolouration and weakening-even if the paint is stable. Archival paper avoids this entirely.

Proper framing with UV-protective glass
Even the most lightfast pigments can degrade under prolonged UV exposure. That's where framing comes in.

• UV-filtering glass or acrylic blocks a significant portion (often 97-99%) of ultraviolet radiation.
• This dramatically slows fading and paper degradation.
• Proper framing also includes:
  • Matting to keep the painting from touching the glass (prevents moisture damage and sticking)
  • Sealed backing to protect against dust, humidity, and pollutants

Think of UV glass as sunscreen for your artwork-it doesn't eliminate risk, but it greatly extends safe exposure time.

How it all works together
Each component protects against a different threat:

• Pigments resist fading
• Paper resists internal decay and discolouration
• UV glass framing protects from light and environment

When combined, these create a system where deterioration is slowed to a very gradual process. Under typical indoor conditions (no direct sunlight, stable humidity), a well-made watercolour can remain vibrant for generations.

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